Guest Blogger: Kinky Twists

Please welcome Inesa of 4CNaturalHair who was kind enough to share her tips for shampooing and maintaining kinky twists!

Haaaaaay! I am just loving these Kinky twists. I thought that I already knew how to wash and care for my kinky hair in this protective style, but after doing a little research, I was wrong.

Since I will be using natural oils, conditioners and other ingredients on my hair and scalp while in this protective style, I will have to wash the build up off of my scalp. The scalp needs to be clean and free of build up and environmental toxins in order for the sebum to circulate.

How to wash your scalp in KINKY TWISTS:

Items needed:

1- Head band or clips to put the hair up into what would be a puff
2- water bottle
3- Your favorite shampoo and conditioner

First take the head band or your clips and put hair up on top of head as if you were doing a puff. Pulling the sides and back up. Then you will take your spray bottle and add approximately 3-4 inches of water, depending on how thick your hair is. Take your shampoo and add 1 a teaspoon of shampoo into the water and shake to mix and dilute the shampoo. You may notice the water beginning to foam a little, but that is fine. If it is too sudsy add more water.

Next, spray your scalp in between the kinky twists. The aim is to clean the scalp so you do not want it full of suds. Keep spraying all over your scalp. Once you have done the sides and back, then remove your clips or band to get to the crown and or center of the head. Continue to spray your diluted shampoo onto your scalp until the bottle is empty.

You can do this over a sink or in the shower.

*Rinsing option 1- Put on your satin bonnet in the shower and let the cool or warm water run over it removing the diluted shampoo.

*Rinsing option 2- Rinse out your spray bottle really well and then just add cool or warm water to it and put your hair back up into a puff and start spraying the water onto your scalp to remove the shampoo. By holding your head over a sink, you will be able to see all of the dirt and toxins coming out of your scalp. After you have done the sides and back, remove your styling tools (if you choose to) and continue to spray the scalp wherever you have not reached.

Do not worry about your kinky twists, the mixture will drip through the twists from your scalp to cleanse the hair intertwined.

Once you have removed all of the diluted shampoo from your scalp and used up all of the water, you will notice that the ends will be dripping wet, so grab an old t-shirt or your hands and gently squeeze out the excess water.

Last, add your leave-in conditioner to some water (if you choose) and your favorite oil into a spray bottle and spray your scalp and the kinky twists. Spray the twist all the way down to the ends.

How to maintain Kinky twists during the night:

If you have mini kinky twists you might want to pin your twists up into a wrap prior to protecting. If you scalp feels dry, spritz your moisturizing mix or massage your oil onto your scalp prior to wrapping them up…

So wrap your kinky twists in a silk/ satin scarf or a large draw string satin bonnet to help preserve the style at night.

You can tie your knot in the front or back of your head, whichever is more comfortable for you.

How to maintain Kinky twists during the day:

The first thing to do is to remove your satin or silk scarf or bonnet and give your kinky twists a gentle shake to wake them up.

A lot of people keep saying to use an oil sheen spray, but with all of the chemicals in it, I won’t. So I just use my moisturizing mixture which consists of distilled water, JBCO,Shea Moisture restorative conditioner, Grape seed oil, and jojoba oil and spritz my scalp and twists if my scalp or kinky twists begin to feel dry, and then give them a gentle squeeze so that the conditioner and oils penetrate the twists. Style and go.

Other oils that you may use – Raw African Shea butter, Olive oil, Virgin Coconut oil.

Other tips for maintaining kinky twists:

* If you have stray hairs that come out of the twists, smooth them down with a twisting cream or gel.

* If your kinky twists become dull, just gently rub your normal natural oils between your hands and run your hands down the kinky twists.

* Be careful when applying an oil to the hair because too much oil can cause the kinky twists to slip out of your hair and clog pores.

* When washing in this style, focus on your scalp, not the twists.

I hope that this post is informative for those kinkie’s thinking about getting the kinky twist style put in. If anyone has any other tips for me, please leave them in the reply box. Have a great day!
Thanks for sharing Inesa!  Your twists are absolutely beautiful!

Guest Article: Me, My Hair and I by Leisa V. Johnson

Me, My Hair and I
I am not your expectations
Leisa V. Johnson

Listening to Indie Arie sing I Am Not My Hair is the most accurate testament to my 50 year hair struggle that could ever possibly exist. From the first time I heard the song, the words and images seemed so familiar that I could have sworn Indie crept into the recesses of my psyche to reveal all the anxiety, discontent, and insecurities I have felt about my hair over the years.

Good hair means curls and waves; Bad hair means you look like a slave

As I was growing up my hair was jet black, extremely thick, and average length. But there was one problem: it was considered “bad hair” by the general populace of Black folk. When “pressed and curled” (a process that involved extreme heat, smoke inhalation, and numerous unpleasant encounters with a hot iron comb and my ears and scalp) my hair would look quite nice so said the general populace of Black folk. But several external factors: perspiration, morning dew, rain, or humidity could turn that glistening press and curl into a 3 inch tightly packed afro in 2.3 seconds. I shudder to recall the number of middle and high school dances where I went in with one hair style and came out distressed and embarrassed with a tiny little fro that found its way to my head with each of the night’s dance moves.

 “Thirteen I got a relaxer; I was the source of so much laughter”

“Girl what happened to your hair?” was the reigning cry at the end of each dance as I scuttled out of the gym into the light of minor yet penetrating humiliation. Funny now; not so funny then. It was remnants from such experiences and the sheer desire NOT to be laughed at or picked on that caused me to mutilate and assault my hair over the next 30+ years. Hot combs, lye relaxers, no-lye relaxers, back to lye relaxers because “Your hair is too coarse”, curling irons, plastic curlers, foam rollers, blow dryers, jehrri curls and not to mention an array of miracle inducing hair products that promised to make your hair shiny, manageable, straight and silky. I have to believe that if I had the money wasted on the artillery of assault weapons that I have purchased over the years, the Jeep that my son so desperately wants would be sitting in the driveway of our mortgage free two story split level 250 square foot home as we speak.

At the turn of the century; It’s time for us to redefine who we be

Old school ignorance has played a long and lasting role in defining how we see ourselves and our beauty. About three years ago I was totally shocked by one of my beloved Black male students. Michael had numerous encounters with school administration, the suspension process, and the law. And now he stood in front of me with pants sagging and underwear showing defiantly proclaiming, “I wish my prom date would call herself going to prom with me with braids in her hair. She better go get that stuff straightened out.” I couldn’t believe my ears. “Are you serious?” I retorted. “You mean in this day and age you still feel that a woman has to have straight hair to be attractive or deemed an acceptable prom date?” I pointed out classic African American women such as Janet Jackson, Alicia Keys (before the crossover), and Angela Bassett who have eloquently rocked braids, beauty, and class but all of my examples, explanation, and elaboration couldn’t outweigh his Grandmother’s misguided attempts to define class and beauty by the measuring stick of another race. (I couldn’t help but wonder did she put the same emphasis on lessons about honor, integrity and discipline?)

My parents didn’t made big issue over things like hair texture and skin color and I thank them for that. Even though the side effects of a time period when everything Black was measured against everything White still loomed in their distance. My mother never lamented my hair nor did she ever encourage me to perm my hair, but the wearing of natural unpressed hair and or braids was totally unprofessional and crude in her way of thinking. My father never commented on my hair but one couldn’t help but to observe that the majority of the women my dad found attractive had “good hair”.

Does the way I wear my hair determine my integrity? I am expressing my creativity…

So now, how do I feel about my hair in 2011. I can honestly say that I have never hated my hair nor genuinely coveted my neighbor’s hair. I love my hair. I just wish everybody else felt the same. For a while during my journey I would perm my hair between braids and twists. During the straight hair times my main stream co-workers would rave about how they loved my hair. “Oh I just love your hair like this. It’s nice the other way too but I love it like this.” Uuuummm???? Oh well, moving on. I totally reject such terms as nappy, kinky, ghetto, and coarse in reference to my God given mane. (Coarse in terms of ??????? Yeah, right!) These words exude so much negative connotation that I cannot in good conscious bring myself to use them to describe what is my crown and glory. My hair is MY hair. At present it is 80% grey with its natural texture braided in micro braids comingled with synthetic store bought hair. I call it an Ethnic mix and I make no apologies for any of it. When the feeling hits, I change from micros to two strand twists. Right now that’s just how I roll. And as I travel this journey of self- acceptance I will probably ditch the store bought hair, eagerly await the other 20% grey and just let it do what it do knowing all the while that my hair is beautiful!

You can shave it off
Like a South African beauty
Or get it on lock
Like Bob Marley
You can rock it straight
Like Oprah Winfrey
If its not what’s on your head
Its what’s underneath and say HEY..

I am a soul that lives within

Incredible article Leisa!  If you are inspired by Leisa’s story and would like to tell your own, please email me at

diego2memphis@hotmail.com. Thanks! ~ LV

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